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August 2009 (2)

Aug182009

Frank Bruni dissects his food obsession

The Secret History of a Full-Time Eater" (The Penguin Press, 354 pages, $25.95), by Frank Bruni: Obsessive relationships are often the meat and potatoes of autobiography.
But for Frank Bruni, meat and potatoes ARE the obsession. Along with a never-ending parade of other goodies, from French haute cuisine in all its flavorsome complexity to more basic foodstuff, such as the elongated, chocolate-coated wafers of a KitKat bar, described in reverential, almost spiritual terms.

"My life-defining relationship ... wasn't with a parent, a sibling, a teacher, a mate. It was with my stomach," he proclaims in "Born Round: The Secret History of a Full-Time Eater." And it's this contentious relationship that Bruni, for five years the chief restaurant critic for The New York Times, chronicles with startling, intimate directness. It's a thoughtful tale, unsparing in Bruni's analysis of himself, but hugely entertaining in his almost "Rocky"-like determination to make things right after countless slip-ups.

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Aug182009

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